It's been a productive sunny Sunday. I have taken off the throttle body assembly, cleaned the idle air controller (IAC) and reassembled it, without the bellmouth.
The IAC is a common cause of rough idle on the 3.8 Buick engines, as it can clog up with carbon and dust deposits. Mine was filthy. I cleaned it all out, including the butterfly valve with spray-degreaser and a rag. The IAC needed to be removed for cleaning, and the O-ring was still servicable. The idle air controller is a computer controlled valve that lets the correct amount of air into the plenum for idle. The computer automatically adjusts it to maintain the correct idle speed when load is put onto the engine, for example, putting an automatic into drive, or turning on the air conditioning or headlights.
The bellmouth is a piece of plastic which sits inside the plenum, helping distribute the air evenly between the cylinders. When it is installed, it causes the inlet tract to taper, reducing it's diameter by about 10-15% after the throttle butterfly. This bellmouth was not fitted to series 1 VN Commodores, but it was fitted to all models after, up to the VR. It was designed to smooth idle slightly, as without it the rear two cylinders experience increased air-flow and tend to run leaner, and it was apparently also designed to correct a "problem" of excessive wheel-spin off the line. This bellmouth has been removed from my car. I have heard that a memcal is available that maps the idle mixture to be slightly richer to prevent the leaning out of the rear two cylinders, and I will be doing this as soon as I make my Delco unit programmable via Kalmaker or something similar. Unfortunately, it is not possible to adjust the output of the injectors individually with this system, as they are connected sequentially.
I got a bit of paranoia about using the correct gasket sealant, as I normally use Loctite No.3 Aircraft non-hardening gasket sealant, but I have heard that the incorrect use of silicone based sealants on engines with oxygen sensors can cause the sensor to fail. I have no idea if this Loctite stuff uses silicone, but I had a look at the guide on the Loctite website and it says it is okay, so I reused the old gaskets which were still okay, and put a layer of gasket cement on each surface. Apparently the gaskent sealant can be used without paper gaskets, but I'm just not game to do that somehow.
I also adjusted the trasmission kick-down cable, as it was not shifting down easily enough on throttle application. I tightened it, only too much, and this caused the transmission to hold the throttle open when coasting, which can be quite un-nerving. Only tighten it one notch at a time.
Sunday, August 21, 2005
Friday, August 19, 2005
Got the O2 sensor in, plus new cat and exhaust system
The oxygen sensor is now installed, and has improved the running of the engine markedly. Shortly after installing the sensor, it occured to me that the cat converter may be worn out. I have heard that a rich mixture can cause a catalytic converter to become blocked, and since I had a faulty fuel pressure regulator, and oxygen sensor I figured it was likely that the cat converter was on it's way out. There was also a rattling noise coming from beneath the car when the engine reached operating temperature, which is also symptematic of a faulty cat converter.
When I took it to the exhaust place, (MIDAS West Ryde) they took it all apart, and it turned out that no.2 rear muffler had all it's internals loose, and the cat converter, although not blocked, only had another couple of months left in it. I had the first muffler replaced a month ago, and the weld had cracked and was leaking. I won't be going back to that place again. The guys at Midas pulled it all off and replaced it with a hi-flow cat and 2.5 inch pipes thru a single muffler. The exhaust is much more audible now on full-song. I will hold off on extractors until I have the manual transmission in it and am preparing a new worked motor.
This weekend I will be doing a bit of body work, there is a rust hole in the boot when the spare wheel sits which I will grind out and repair. The boot badges and key hole are to be removed, filled and painted. The tow bar is to be removed, and I'm shopping for a stereo.
I also have had a problem since I got the car, where is hasn't been holding coolant. The header tank would always empty after a couple of days. Just after starting it up, it would also make a noise from inside the cabin similar to water running down a wall. This seemed to come from the heating unit inside the car. The problem turned out to be an incorrect radiator cap which was leaking under pressure out the side of the cap, rather than forcing is down the return line into the header tank. A new radiator cap from Holden, and she's as good as new. The genuine cap has another rubber gromet that the dodgy one didn't have and works properly. I haven't had to refill the header tank for over a week now. It's the cheapest thing I've fixed on the car for $9.95.
When I took it to the exhaust place, (MIDAS West Ryde) they took it all apart, and it turned out that no.2 rear muffler had all it's internals loose, and the cat converter, although not blocked, only had another couple of months left in it. I had the first muffler replaced a month ago, and the weld had cracked and was leaking. I won't be going back to that place again. The guys at Midas pulled it all off and replaced it with a hi-flow cat and 2.5 inch pipes thru a single muffler. The exhaust is much more audible now on full-song. I will hold off on extractors until I have the manual transmission in it and am preparing a new worked motor.
This weekend I will be doing a bit of body work, there is a rust hole in the boot when the spare wheel sits which I will grind out and repair. The boot badges and key hole are to be removed, filled and painted. The tow bar is to be removed, and I'm shopping for a stereo.
I also have had a problem since I got the car, where is hasn't been holding coolant. The header tank would always empty after a couple of days. Just after starting it up, it would also make a noise from inside the cabin similar to water running down a wall. This seemed to come from the heating unit inside the car. The problem turned out to be an incorrect radiator cap which was leaking under pressure out the side of the cap, rather than forcing is down the return line into the header tank. A new radiator cap from Holden, and she's as good as new. The genuine cap has another rubber gromet that the dodgy one didn't have and works properly. I haven't had to refill the header tank for over a week now. It's the cheapest thing I've fixed on the car for $9.95.
Friday, August 12, 2005
New exhaust gas oxygen sensor on the way
I've almost got this car running nicely. It now starts first time every time. The fuel pressure regulator fixed that. It turned out that the car was running high fuel pressure due to the faulty fuel pressure regulator and flooding the engine on start-up. It was also causing it to run rich.
Now that I've fixed all that, it still runs rough when the engine reaches operating temperature. When I say it runs rough, I mean it idles rough, because when there is even a bit of throttle it runs well and smoothly with full power. Interestingly enough the car runs fine when just started and cold.
When I hooked up the laptop, I noticed that the transition from even to rough running during engine warmup occurs just as the ECU switches from open loop mode (running without using input from the oxygen sensor) to closed loop mode (using input from exhaust oxygen sensor to control mixtures). The voltage from the oxygen sensor seems to be within range, and therefore is not triggering any error codes, but the engine is definitely getting too much fuel, I can smell it from the exhaust, and the engine misses when idleing probably every 8-10 revolutions or so.
Exhaust gas oxygen sensors work by generating an electric current that corresponds with the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream, which provides a means to determine the fuel/air mixture at combustion. This current decreses with the oxygen content, and rises as the mixture gets more rich. When they fail, they get sluggish to increase in voltage under the rich condition, and the ECU increases the injector pulse width even more, as it is getting an incorrect reading. The result is an engine that runs rich when warm. As VP Commodores idle under closed loop when hot, a faulty exhaust gas oxygen sensor (or Lambda sensor) has dramatic effects on the engine idle.
I have a new sensor on the way that I will pick up from Hunter Holden tomorrow.
Now that I've fixed all that, it still runs rough when the engine reaches operating temperature. When I say it runs rough, I mean it idles rough, because when there is even a bit of throttle it runs well and smoothly with full power. Interestingly enough the car runs fine when just started and cold.
When I hooked up the laptop, I noticed that the transition from even to rough running during engine warmup occurs just as the ECU switches from open loop mode (running without using input from the oxygen sensor) to closed loop mode (using input from exhaust oxygen sensor to control mixtures). The voltage from the oxygen sensor seems to be within range, and therefore is not triggering any error codes, but the engine is definitely getting too much fuel, I can smell it from the exhaust, and the engine misses when idleing probably every 8-10 revolutions or so.
Exhaust gas oxygen sensors work by generating an electric current that corresponds with the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream, which provides a means to determine the fuel/air mixture at combustion. This current decreses with the oxygen content, and rises as the mixture gets more rich. When they fail, they get sluggish to increase in voltage under the rich condition, and the ECU increases the injector pulse width even more, as it is getting an incorrect reading. The result is an engine that runs rich when warm. As VP Commodores idle under closed loop when hot, a faulty exhaust gas oxygen sensor (or Lambda sensor) has dramatic effects on the engine idle.
I have a new sensor on the way that I will pick up from Hunter Holden tomorrow.
The new Sydney Cross-city tunnel. I won't be going under.
Sydney motorists are sick of tolls. We pay massive taxes on fuel, which go up every time the fuel price rises, and GST on top of that. We pay road taxes and registration that are supposed to go into the maintenance of the roads. Greed (speed) cameras on the side of vast long stretches of road and at the bottom of hills reap millions every month. Council rangers use shady and under-handed tactics to squeeze every last dollar out of people trying to park up for a days work. Yet every new road that is built in Sydney (to cope with the massive influx of population) has to be a tollway. These tollways are private projects, funded and managed by private companies, who then sit back, and reap millions off these tolls, as motorists are forced to pay to use sub-standard tollways. Look at the M5, it is a carpark most peak times. I can't comprehend the idea of actually paying to use it.
The new cross city tunnel is another such toll road. It has just been revealed that the NSW government is going to close the other route to the city, forcing motorists to pay their toll. (not actually their toll, the toll goes to their corporate mates, but they imposed it on us.)
I will NEVER use these toll roads. I pay enough in road tax, I believe I should be able to get around on the roads I already pay for. If I have to go through the city, I will not use the tunnel on principal, and will roar through whatever endless backstreets I need to in order to reach my destination, as I do already to avoid other toll roads. I do pity the residents that live on those backstreets, but we are all in the same boat. If enough motorists complain about toll roads and refuse to use them, and enough residents complain about increased traffic on back streets due to people avoiding toll roads, maybe we will see some action and an end of this trend of governments tricking us into paying private enterprise for services that we already pay the government for. Then, to add insult to injury, making us put up with the sub-standard services provided by these private operators as they sit on their governement sanctioned cash-cow and reap in the millions from thousands of motorists sitting in gridlock on their cheaply made tollways that are of inadiquate capacity. Then all roads other than the tollway are closed to help feed the cash cow.
The new cross city tunnel is another such toll road. It has just been revealed that the NSW government is going to close the other route to the city, forcing motorists to pay their toll. (not actually their toll, the toll goes to their corporate mates, but they imposed it on us.)
I will NEVER use these toll roads. I pay enough in road tax, I believe I should be able to get around on the roads I already pay for. If I have to go through the city, I will not use the tunnel on principal, and will roar through whatever endless backstreets I need to in order to reach my destination, as I do already to avoid other toll roads. I do pity the residents that live on those backstreets, but we are all in the same boat. If enough motorists complain about toll roads and refuse to use them, and enough residents complain about increased traffic on back streets due to people avoiding toll roads, maybe we will see some action and an end of this trend of governments tricking us into paying private enterprise for services that we already pay the government for. Then, to add insult to injury, making us put up with the sub-standard services provided by these private operators as they sit on their governement sanctioned cash-cow and reap in the millions from thousands of motorists sitting in gridlock on their cheaply made tollways that are of inadiquate capacity. Then all roads other than the tollway are closed to help feed the cash cow.
Tuesday, August 09, 2005
A word of advice - Don't use IPrimus
I'm just on hold with the IPrimus customer support line. Just wanting to check on the progress of a broadband connection. I have now been on hold for over an hour. This is now a common occurance with this company. There seems to be no way of speaking to anyone from the company in a timeframe of less than one hour. I have cancelled all my home services with them, as I physically did not have the time to wait an hour to check on a bill or whatever. Unfortunately this company still uses them, so any time I need to contact them, I have to set an hour and a half of the day aside to sit on hold.
I will be making sure this comany ceases to use IPrimus and their useless service. I would recommend that unless you like sitting on hold for over an hour (no exageration) that you find another ISP.
I will be making sure this comany ceases to use IPrimus and their useless service. I would recommend that unless you like sitting on hold for over an hour (no exageration) that you find another ISP.
Sunday, August 07, 2005
Aznew injectors
I've just been down to Repco to purchase some Aznew fuel injectors for the Commodore. Aznew are a company that recondition fuel injectors to new specifications. The deal is you go to one of their agents (stockists) in my case, Repco, and purchase the injectors for $240, plus around $400 holding deposit. When you take your old injectors back to them, they will refund your $400 deposit. By the way, the injectors in my car are still not running pintle caps, and I'm pretty sure one of them is leaking, flooding the engine on start-up. I plan to replace the injectors, and if the starting issues are still not resolved, I will be looking at fuel pressure in the fuel rail, and the fuel pressure regulator. Here is a link for Aznew fuel injectors.
Saturday, August 06, 2005
"It's a doozy!"
Ever heard that expression?
Meaning - a wonderful, or excellent thing.
Know where the saying originates?
It's a reference to one of the most remarkable automobiles ever produced. The Duesenberg SJ.
Fred Duesenberg, who, together with his brother August, was creator, designer and builder of the car, was eight years old in 1885 when his family emigrated from Germany to the United States, settling in Rockford, Iowa.
Fred left school at the age of 17.
As engineer, designer and manufacturer he was entirely self-taught.
He possessed some kind of genius.
He could tell by looking at a mechanical part if it would work or not. He could tell by listening to the sound of an engine running on a test stand whether it was OK or needed rebuilding.
Fred Duesenberg began his mechanical career by working on farm machinery - reapers, binders, steam-tractors.
It wasn't long before his innate creativity led him to start working on projects of his own.
He began by making bicycles.
Bicycles led logically to motorbikes.
By 1904 Fred was able, with his brother August, to open his own garage in Iowa.
Here they built their first racing car, and were, by their mid-twenties, already highly successful.
In 1913 they set up a company in their own name: The Duesenberg Motor Company, in St Paul, Minnesota.
During World War 1 they produced military engines of all kinds. Having fulfilled their patriotic duty, they turned their energies once more to their true goal: to produce motorcars. Not just any motorcar - they wanted to produce the best motorcar in the world.
There was one problem - money.
Like many genuinely creative people, Fred did not have a good head for business. He gave an engine design to his friend Harry Stutz. He didn't take out a patent on his hydraulic four-wheel brake system, which should have made him a millionaire many times over.
To raise funds to build their perfect car, the Duesenbergs sold their factory and moved to Indianapolis.
Their success with racing cars continued, and in due course they introduced their first passenger car, the Model A, which was to remain in production until 1926. The model A, a kind of preparation for what was to follow, was extremely expensive for its day, and, by 1926, the company was in financial difficulties.
The company was saved by one of the virtuosi of American business - Erret Lobban Cord.
Cord's was not the greatest mechanical mind, but he was in sympathy with the Duesenbergs' desire to produce THE best automobile.
He said the magic words: "Never mind what it costs - BUILD it!"
The result was, indeed, the finest motorcar of its day, lovingly assembled by a team of craftsmen working for a company which never saw a cent of profit during its entire corporate existence.
Most Duesenbergs, as was the custom in those days, were delivered as a bare chassis, and the great coachbuilders of the world were commissioned to build custom bodies onto them.
The Model SJ, which appeared in 1932, had a maximum speed of 130 mph, and could reach 100 mph within 17 seconds of a standing start.
The bare chassis, in 1932, cost $8500.
Who bought them? People who could afford anything they wanted, money no object.
Owning a Duesenberg was essential for any movie star who wanted to prove he had reached the top.
Two specials were produced with a shorter chassis than normal, one for Clark Gable, the other for Gary Cooper.
The Duesenberg SJ is a testament to the genius and vision of three men - Fred and August Duesenberg and E.L. Cord.
And, yes, what a doozy!
Diecast-vintage-cars.com is a source for detailed die-cast replicas of classic motor cars.
Meaning - a wonderful, or excellent thing.
Know where the saying originates?
It's a reference to one of the most remarkable automobiles ever produced. The Duesenberg SJ.
Fred Duesenberg, who, together with his brother August, was creator, designer and builder of the car, was eight years old in 1885 when his family emigrated from Germany to the United States, settling in Rockford, Iowa.
Fred left school at the age of 17.
As engineer, designer and manufacturer he was entirely self-taught.
He possessed some kind of genius.
He could tell by looking at a mechanical part if it would work or not. He could tell by listening to the sound of an engine running on a test stand whether it was OK or needed rebuilding.
Fred Duesenberg began his mechanical career by working on farm machinery - reapers, binders, steam-tractors.
It wasn't long before his innate creativity led him to start working on projects of his own.
He began by making bicycles.
Bicycles led logically to motorbikes.
By 1904 Fred was able, with his brother August, to open his own garage in Iowa.
Here they built their first racing car, and were, by their mid-twenties, already highly successful.
In 1913 they set up a company in their own name: The Duesenberg Motor Company, in St Paul, Minnesota.
During World War 1 they produced military engines of all kinds. Having fulfilled their patriotic duty, they turned their energies once more to their true goal: to produce motorcars. Not just any motorcar - they wanted to produce the best motorcar in the world.
There was one problem - money.
Like many genuinely creative people, Fred did not have a good head for business. He gave an engine design to his friend Harry Stutz. He didn't take out a patent on his hydraulic four-wheel brake system, which should have made him a millionaire many times over.
To raise funds to build their perfect car, the Duesenbergs sold their factory and moved to Indianapolis.
Their success with racing cars continued, and in due course they introduced their first passenger car, the Model A, which was to remain in production until 1926. The model A, a kind of preparation for what was to follow, was extremely expensive for its day, and, by 1926, the company was in financial difficulties.
The company was saved by one of the virtuosi of American business - Erret Lobban Cord.
Cord's was not the greatest mechanical mind, but he was in sympathy with the Duesenbergs' desire to produce THE best automobile.
He said the magic words: "Never mind what it costs - BUILD it!"
The result was, indeed, the finest motorcar of its day, lovingly assembled by a team of craftsmen working for a company which never saw a cent of profit during its entire corporate existence.
Most Duesenbergs, as was the custom in those days, were delivered as a bare chassis, and the great coachbuilders of the world were commissioned to build custom bodies onto them.
The Model SJ, which appeared in 1932, had a maximum speed of 130 mph, and could reach 100 mph within 17 seconds of a standing start.
The bare chassis, in 1932, cost $8500.
Who bought them? People who could afford anything they wanted, money no object.
Owning a Duesenberg was essential for any movie star who wanted to prove he had reached the top.
Two specials were produced with a shorter chassis than normal, one for Clark Gable, the other for Gary Cooper.
The Duesenberg SJ is a testament to the genius and vision of three men - Fred and August Duesenberg and E.L. Cord.
And, yes, what a doozy!
Diecast-vintage-cars.com is a source for detailed die-cast replicas of classic motor cars.
The Spirit Of The Car
I drive a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria. It's prior owner was the Utah Highway Patrol. This car can move. It has some serious get-up-and-go.
But it also has a certain spirit about it. It still has the suped-up engine and even the extra hand light mounted outside the driver's side window. But there is something more.
My wife likes it because when you step on the gas, before you can even think about how fast you are going, you are half-way down the block.
But we both feel something - some sort of connection to the car's past.
Often when I am driving on the freeway or even down my street, I feel like I am on patrol. I drive slower and keep a watchful eye out for things I don't even know what to look for.
I feel more wary, intense, and observant just driving down my street. It's almost as if I am patrolling my own neighborhood. And the car, with it's shiny silver hand light, usually gets some extra attention.
I am more likely to smile and wave at my neighbors as if I was the friendly neighborhood patrol man. And I like to give the kids a firm scowl as if scolding them for playing in the street and then a brief smile to let them know I am just watching out for them.
It's almost like putting on a different set of clothing or a uniform and putting yourself into the role.
It's not all serious though. Driving it on the freeway can be very entertaining. Many people mistake it for an undercover patrol car. But as they approach closer, the two car seats and children's books in the rear window give it away.
The most fun comes when driving in the middle or right lane of the freeway. No one wants to pass me. I have slowed traffic down to 10 miles below the speed limit and still no one will pass or even pull ahead.
Until some brave person notices that I am not really an officer and this is not really a patrol car. They speed off in a huff and my cover is blown when I don't chase them down.
Then the magic ends and every one I was able to back up continues on their way. Some give me a nasty glare as if I tricked them, others just smile with amusement. But either way, my passengers and I have a good chuckle over the situation.
When someone realizes I am not a patrol car and dashes off in a huff or if I see someone dangerously change lanes or tailgate, I really do have the urge to chase them down, flash my brights and pull up right behind or to the side of them. My car is still patrolling the highway.
And I'll admit that every once in a while when getting on the freeway, I drop the hammer and let that car fly. We can get past freeway speed before we even leave the on ramp. That car sure likes to run.
And I'll also admit that once or twice I have tried playing the part. One incident in paticular that was very amusing happened a few days ago.
I was driving on the freeway and my exit was coming up in a couple of miles. I was in the left lane and watching my mirror so that I could move into the right lane to get off the freeway.
While watching my rear view mirror I saw a sports car rapidly approaching. The car was weaving in and out of all three lanes in a desperate attempt to navigate through a maze of traffic.
I decided I would have a little fun.
I pulled into the center lane in front of a large semi-truck where I was sure the speeding sports car would not see me. I slowed down a bit to match the trucks speed and waited. My trap was set.
The sports car came speeding up on my right. I was doing the speed limit at 65 and this sports car must have been doing close to 90 it was approaching so fast.
The right lane was clear behind and in front of the sports car for about ¼ mile. We were also approaching a freeway exit, the one before mine.
As the sports car sped past me, I quickly swerved into the lane right behind the sports car and rapidly sped up to come close to it's speed.
About a second later as I was approaching it doing about 75, the driver swerved onto the off ramp a split second before it was too late, probably hoping I would not be able to follow.
I grinned a mischievous grin and continued on my way to the next off ramp where I got off the freeway. I really don't know if that actually was that sports car's exit or if I just chased a dangerous driver off the freeway, but I like to think the latter, and grin.
***************************************************************
© Simple Joe, Inc.
David Berky is president of Simple Joe, Inc. a marketing company that sells simple software under the brand name of Simple Joe. One of Simple Joe's best selling products is Simple Joe's Money Tools - a collection of 14 personal finance and investment calculators. This article may be freely distributed so long as the copyright, author's information and an active link (where possible) are included.
But it also has a certain spirit about it. It still has the suped-up engine and even the extra hand light mounted outside the driver's side window. But there is something more.
My wife likes it because when you step on the gas, before you can even think about how fast you are going, you are half-way down the block.
But we both feel something - some sort of connection to the car's past.
Often when I am driving on the freeway or even down my street, I feel like I am on patrol. I drive slower and keep a watchful eye out for things I don't even know what to look for.
I feel more wary, intense, and observant just driving down my street. It's almost as if I am patrolling my own neighborhood. And the car, with it's shiny silver hand light, usually gets some extra attention.
I am more likely to smile and wave at my neighbors as if I was the friendly neighborhood patrol man. And I like to give the kids a firm scowl as if scolding them for playing in the street and then a brief smile to let them know I am just watching out for them.
It's almost like putting on a different set of clothing or a uniform and putting yourself into the role.
It's not all serious though. Driving it on the freeway can be very entertaining. Many people mistake it for an undercover patrol car. But as they approach closer, the two car seats and children's books in the rear window give it away.
The most fun comes when driving in the middle or right lane of the freeway. No one wants to pass me. I have slowed traffic down to 10 miles below the speed limit and still no one will pass or even pull ahead.
Until some brave person notices that I am not really an officer and this is not really a patrol car. They speed off in a huff and my cover is blown when I don't chase them down.
Then the magic ends and every one I was able to back up continues on their way. Some give me a nasty glare as if I tricked them, others just smile with amusement. But either way, my passengers and I have a good chuckle over the situation.
When someone realizes I am not a patrol car and dashes off in a huff or if I see someone dangerously change lanes or tailgate, I really do have the urge to chase them down, flash my brights and pull up right behind or to the side of them. My car is still patrolling the highway.
And I'll admit that every once in a while when getting on the freeway, I drop the hammer and let that car fly. We can get past freeway speed before we even leave the on ramp. That car sure likes to run.
And I'll also admit that once or twice I have tried playing the part. One incident in paticular that was very amusing happened a few days ago.
I was driving on the freeway and my exit was coming up in a couple of miles. I was in the left lane and watching my mirror so that I could move into the right lane to get off the freeway.
While watching my rear view mirror I saw a sports car rapidly approaching. The car was weaving in and out of all three lanes in a desperate attempt to navigate through a maze of traffic.
I decided I would have a little fun.
I pulled into the center lane in front of a large semi-truck where I was sure the speeding sports car would not see me. I slowed down a bit to match the trucks speed and waited. My trap was set.
The sports car came speeding up on my right. I was doing the speed limit at 65 and this sports car must have been doing close to 90 it was approaching so fast.
The right lane was clear behind and in front of the sports car for about ¼ mile. We were also approaching a freeway exit, the one before mine.
As the sports car sped past me, I quickly swerved into the lane right behind the sports car and rapidly sped up to come close to it's speed.
About a second later as I was approaching it doing about 75, the driver swerved onto the off ramp a split second before it was too late, probably hoping I would not be able to follow.
I grinned a mischievous grin and continued on my way to the next off ramp where I got off the freeway. I really don't know if that actually was that sports car's exit or if I just chased a dangerous driver off the freeway, but I like to think the latter, and grin.
***************************************************************
© Simple Joe, Inc.
David Berky is president of Simple Joe, Inc. a marketing company that sells simple software under the brand name of Simple Joe. One of Simple Joe's best selling products is Simple Joe's Money Tools - a collection of 14 personal finance and investment calculators. This article may be freely distributed so long as the copyright, author's information and an active link (where possible) are included.
4 tips to save on your next car purchase
Many of us have been at the car dealership and have been drained by a salesperson during price negotiations for the purchase of a new car. Most people give in too easily or do not negotiate at all to avoid the dreadful act. This only means more money in the car dealers? pocket, while you are out of several thousand dollars! Yes, they make that much in profit per car.
This article unveils the dealer?s selling tactics and how you can get around them. But before we dive into the new car buying tips, we need to understand what makes up the dealer?s profits. In addition to the MSRP (manufacturer suggested retail price), which is the dealer?s cost for the car plus an additional 20-25% profit, a dealer also gets financial incentives from the manufacturer when a new car is sold. This is called Holdback.
Depending on the car, dealers can make hundreds on each car through holdbacks. Dealers also get additional incentives and bonuses on selling a car before the end of the month and/or quarter. A shrewd dealer can make several thousand on a new car even by selling it at invoice price. This is how new car buying can become tricky for the consumer.
Ready to learn how not to put a dent in your wallet on your next car purchase? Here are four tips to get you started. Each one is a dealer tactic to watch out for.
1. The Guilt Trip
As you may have noticed, every desk in a dealership has photos of the salesperson?s family, instead of photos of cars. Midway in the negotiation, the sales person will bring them up and make it look like his little commission check can hardly pay for his daughters college and little Bradley?s braces.
A seasoned salesperson will soon have you feeling guilty for driving the price down and hurting his commission. Watch out not to fall for this tactic, since you already know about holdbacks and incentive programs from manufacturers.
2. Wearing You Down
Come prepared to spend half a day at the dealership or pay whatever the dealer asks for. Car Dealers are trained to delay and tire you out to the point where you give in and accept their price just to get out of there.
After you make your offer, sales people typically claim they would have to run it by their manager. You may then have to re-start negotiating with the manager, who is also a seasoned salesperson. This dance goes on for a while until you give in. Remember, there are multiple dealerships in a city, so they need you more than you need them. Demand to speak to the manager after a certain time period or threaten to leave. Because you are devoting a lot of time to bargain with the dealer, they know you are a serious buyer, so they will not let you leave. The earlier you can speak with the manager, the faster you can leave.
3. The Test Drive
We all enjoy a good test drive and look forward to it. Although it is essential to test drive a car before you buy it, remember to not show your absolute love for the car to the salesperson. Their goal is to get you emotionally attached to the car, so it becomes a must have for you. I have learned it the hard way.
To hide your emotional tears from the salesperson, mention the features of a competing car in the same class, like the new shape, light, leg room, resale value etc. This will make the salesperson a little vulnerable.
4. Monthly Payments
This one is to confuse you. Dealers will start talking about monthly payments rather than the total price of the car. They will start by asking how much you are willing to pay per month and how much of a down payment you are willing to pay. Since people don?t want to look like they cannot afford a certain car, they will usually give a higher number. Big Mistake!
You have left little room for negotiation when this happens. Always steer the conversation to the total price of the car and do NOT mention any trade-ins at this point. Only after the total price of the vehicle is completely negotiated then talk about interest, monthly payment and trade-ins.
General Rule; As a general rule, remember to only focus and negotiate on the Total Price of the vehicle. Everything else is pretty much the car dealer?s trough.
If the above new car buying tips seem like a lot of hassle, yet you still want to get the best price in town, there are some websites that do this for you. http://www.AutoAuctionBids.com for example is a great website for this because you can collect price quotes from multiple local dealers for a particular car as well as its competing car models (like Honda Accord, Toyota Camry and Ford Taurus) and compare them. The website then allows you to send back the lowest quotes received for each car make to all participating dealers in your area through the website itself.
Dealers view this price and continue to submit new lower prices over a 3 day period. By putting local dealers in such a price competition allows you to avoid the dreadful face to face negotiation and yet gets you the lowest price in town for up to 3 competing car makes.
The best part about AutoAuctionBids.com is that it is absolutely free for you and there is no obligation to buy after the new car auction is over.
Prashant Desai, author of various buying tips articles and industry expert for AutoAuctionBids.com. Email him at p_desai@autoauctionbids.com to sign up for e-Newsletter and visit http://www.autoauctionbids.com for more information.
This article unveils the dealer?s selling tactics and how you can get around them. But before we dive into the new car buying tips, we need to understand what makes up the dealer?s profits. In addition to the MSRP (manufacturer suggested retail price), which is the dealer?s cost for the car plus an additional 20-25% profit, a dealer also gets financial incentives from the manufacturer when a new car is sold. This is called Holdback.
Depending on the car, dealers can make hundreds on each car through holdbacks. Dealers also get additional incentives and bonuses on selling a car before the end of the month and/or quarter. A shrewd dealer can make several thousand on a new car even by selling it at invoice price. This is how new car buying can become tricky for the consumer.
Ready to learn how not to put a dent in your wallet on your next car purchase? Here are four tips to get you started. Each one is a dealer tactic to watch out for.
1. The Guilt Trip
As you may have noticed, every desk in a dealership has photos of the salesperson?s family, instead of photos of cars. Midway in the negotiation, the sales person will bring them up and make it look like his little commission check can hardly pay for his daughters college and little Bradley?s braces.
A seasoned salesperson will soon have you feeling guilty for driving the price down and hurting his commission. Watch out not to fall for this tactic, since you already know about holdbacks and incentive programs from manufacturers.
2. Wearing You Down
Come prepared to spend half a day at the dealership or pay whatever the dealer asks for. Car Dealers are trained to delay and tire you out to the point where you give in and accept their price just to get out of there.
After you make your offer, sales people typically claim they would have to run it by their manager. You may then have to re-start negotiating with the manager, who is also a seasoned salesperson. This dance goes on for a while until you give in. Remember, there are multiple dealerships in a city, so they need you more than you need them. Demand to speak to the manager after a certain time period or threaten to leave. Because you are devoting a lot of time to bargain with the dealer, they know you are a serious buyer, so they will not let you leave. The earlier you can speak with the manager, the faster you can leave.
3. The Test Drive
We all enjoy a good test drive and look forward to it. Although it is essential to test drive a car before you buy it, remember to not show your absolute love for the car to the salesperson. Their goal is to get you emotionally attached to the car, so it becomes a must have for you. I have learned it the hard way.
To hide your emotional tears from the salesperson, mention the features of a competing car in the same class, like the new shape, light, leg room, resale value etc. This will make the salesperson a little vulnerable.
4. Monthly Payments
This one is to confuse you. Dealers will start talking about monthly payments rather than the total price of the car. They will start by asking how much you are willing to pay per month and how much of a down payment you are willing to pay. Since people don?t want to look like they cannot afford a certain car, they will usually give a higher number. Big Mistake!
You have left little room for negotiation when this happens. Always steer the conversation to the total price of the car and do NOT mention any trade-ins at this point. Only after the total price of the vehicle is completely negotiated then talk about interest, monthly payment and trade-ins.
General Rule; As a general rule, remember to only focus and negotiate on the Total Price of the vehicle. Everything else is pretty much the car dealer?s trough.
If the above new car buying tips seem like a lot of hassle, yet you still want to get the best price in town, there are some websites that do this for you. http://www.AutoAuctionBids.com for example is a great website for this because you can collect price quotes from multiple local dealers for a particular car as well as its competing car models (like Honda Accord, Toyota Camry and Ford Taurus) and compare them. The website then allows you to send back the lowest quotes received for each car make to all participating dealers in your area through the website itself.
Dealers view this price and continue to submit new lower prices over a 3 day period. By putting local dealers in such a price competition allows you to avoid the dreadful face to face negotiation and yet gets you the lowest price in town for up to 3 competing car makes.
The best part about AutoAuctionBids.com is that it is absolutely free for you and there is no obligation to buy after the new car auction is over.
Prashant Desai, author of various buying tips articles and industry expert for AutoAuctionBids.com. Email him at p_desai@autoauctionbids.com to sign up for e-Newsletter and visit http://www.autoauctionbids.com for more information.
Tuesday, August 02, 2005
Cracked exhaust valve
The job has been done, it started at 10:00am Sunday morning, and finished at 4:00am Monday morning, basically non-stop. I stopped for a few cups of coffee a few times, but other than that it was one of the biggest marathon efforts I have done on a car. After I tightened the final bolt, I had a shower and set off for work in my newly smooth-running Commodore.
The most tricky part I found was getting the exhaust manifolds clear of the heads to get them off, as the vehicle should ideally be jacked up to access the exhaust flange bolts on the underside. Not having chassis stands available, I unbolted it at the cat and slid both manifolds back as one piece. This has to be done as the manifolds restrict access to the head bolts.
I found the engine much simpler than the 4 cylinder over-head cam units I am used to working on, but the work is more heavy. I am very sore in the muscles still. The best thing about push-rod engines is the fact that the cam timing does not need to be reset when the head is replaced.
Upon removing the head, I was presented with the problem straight away. It was a cracked exhaust valve on #3 cylinder, with 2 cracks and the face warped so it wasn't sealing properly, although just enough to get ignition at wide open throttle.
The most tricky part I found was getting the exhaust manifolds clear of the heads to get them off, as the vehicle should ideally be jacked up to access the exhaust flange bolts on the underside. Not having chassis stands available, I unbolted it at the cat and slid both manifolds back as one piece. This has to be done as the manifolds restrict access to the head bolts.
I found the engine much simpler than the 4 cylinder over-head cam units I am used to working on, but the work is more heavy. I am very sore in the muscles still. The best thing about push-rod engines is the fact that the cam timing does not need to be reset when the head is replaced.
Upon removing the head, I was presented with the problem straight away. It was a cracked exhaust valve on #3 cylinder, with 2 cracks and the face warped so it wasn't sealing properly, although just enough to get ignition at wide open throttle.
The car fired up first time, and now idles much more smoothly, on all cylinders. I am going to build another of these engines over the next year with as many bolt-on goodies as I can get my hands on, but hopefully this one will last a year or so now. All other parts appeared to be in good condition. I'm not sure what caused the cracked valve, but it may have been due to the fact that when I got the car, the thermo fan was not activating so it may have been because of excessive heat.
It still idles a little rough, and takes a few seconds to start, and I feel it is fuel system related, so I will be performing a preassure test, and getting the injectors cleaned as I have heard that leaky injectors or a faulty fuel preassure regulator can cause this problem.
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